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12月31日

第五站‖山西 平遥古城 之 叁

Ancient City of Pingyao - Some more

看完院子,我们来看城
在山西的那些天,几乎每天都在下雨
在南方,雨之于我们是最平常不过的
而在北方,雨却是稀罕之物
所以北方大院中常见的蓄水大缸,又有敛财之意
而只有内半边的人字型屋顶,则让雨水汇往屋内,即取自“肥水不流外人田”之说
这些都说明了北方人对雨的看重

而作为游客的我,更要感谢那些日子里的雨
它即给我们酷暑的旅途带来了丝丝清凉
更洗刷了山西这个煤矿大省,无时无刻漂浮在天空中的细小煤颗粒
让镜头下的景物干干净净,清清爽爽
古城的钟楼,上去的费用不包括在160元(学生半价)的全城通票之内

Let's have a look at the city around

Those days when we were up north, it rains almost every day
But in south, back to my hometown, raining most days in a year just as normal as eating rice at every meal
People in the city there were very happy about it, since it rarly rain in northern part of China
You may see a huge vat in every courtyard, which had used be collectng rain in case of catching fire
However, there's another meaning behind it which is collecting fortune
Talk about the roof, you may see not the usual "人" shape, lead the rain to both inside and outside
but half part of it , like "丿" shape, which only faces to the inside of the courtyard
It also means, people don't want let the rain go outside but only inside
since rain is as presious as fortune to a city which was immersed in business in those old days

As tourists, we also felt thankful to have some rain during our trip
It wiped off all the coal dusts in the air, brought us not only the cool but also the refreshing city view
let us were able to take some clean and beautiful photos

FYI: the city pass is 160RMB, half for student, exclusive the bell tower shows below in the photo


































参观古城衙门(包括在通票内

我是从衙门门口对面的普通街道走过去的
石照壁的两边众生人像
一面是干净整齐,络绎不绝的游客和电瓶车
另一面则是正在休整中的道路,堆积的垃圾













“灋”为的“法“字的古体写法。根据东汉许慎所著《说文解字》一书的解释:“灋,刑也,平之如水,从水;廌,所以触不直者去之,从去”。之所以偏旁为“水”,是因为法律如水那样公平;而之所以有“廌”,因为“廌”是传说中古代的一种独角兽,生性正直,古代用它进行“神明裁判”,见到不公平的人,会用角去顶,因此也就有了“去”。

"灋" was the old style of the "法"(Law).
Based on "说文解字(shuowen jiezi)"
the left part "氵" measn water, since water always horizontal, the law should be as justice as water
the right part means a legendary unicorn, which was used to justify.
It would attack the unjustifiable person
The blue creature down the photo's right side is the unicorn













城隍庙



猜猜下面图中两字为何意?



the two charactors means "Dare to go thru?"









古旧的戏台
两旁各有上下两层,中间还有宽阔的留空
在在说明当年的热闹景况



巧夺天工的木雕,转角斗拱,垂花柱
我们的祖先很会摆弄原始的木头,勾心斗角,相互叠压
经过几千年的发展,形成中国古建筑特有的组合形式,出跳越多,出檐也就越深远







文庙里的砖雕









12月29日

第五站‖山西 平遥古城 之 贰

Ancient City of Pingyao II - People

城市的建筑物是死的,一个地方的生命是生活在其中的人赋予的
我说,平遥城里的人们,从老到少,从大到小都是明星
他们娴熟的在各色人的镜头下悠闲自在的过着自己的生活

A place is called a city, because people are living in there.
People in Ancient City of Pingyao, no matter seniors or juniors, are living just like the stars.
Even if there were 10 cameras around them, they can still keep their paces, leisurably and comfortably.

这是平遥街头最常见的景象
人们聚在一起打牌

These is the most commom scene you can see on the Pingyao street.
People are gathering for playing cards.











很喜欢这张,超一致的~哈
love this one~they are so coincident~grin~



象棋
Ok, Chinese chess also



I guess the one in blue was teaching the white one to play the drum. 



孩子们也玩“牌”,不过这是“纸菩萨”(这是我家乡的叫法,不同的地方有不同的名称)
我想应该只有中国孩子才玩吧~

Kids play cards too~but not the one you know.
I believe only Chinese kid play it~
 


“来了!!”
他妈妈当时正从后面的窗户中叫着让他马上回家

"I'm coming!!"
His mum was shouting faraway in their house to demand him back home.



桌球
The billiards too~



剪纸店,我买了四美头
在这里把照片卸载到碟片中,为下面的景致腾出空间

Paper-cutting store, I bought "four beauties head"
We were there for downloading photos and burning them to a disk in order to empty the memory cards.



我当时正在一家餐馆无聊的等着老板准备我的午餐
一开始有些无聊,于是便拿出相机来四处拍
(竟然在取景器里看到老妈从店门口走过,赶紧抓了她一起午餐。我们当天是分头行动的,不过最后午餐是老妈买的单)

I was sitting in a small random familly-run restaurant to grab my lunch.
I felt a little bored at the beggining, coz' I have to wait for the man finish cooking my meal.
Then I pulled out my camera and started shooting around.
(btw, I caught my mum was passing by thru the viewfinder and grab her in. We didn't always stick together, but she paid my lunch bill^^ )  







衙门墙头拍的两个人

two random ppl down the wall



再加一张拍照中的游客~
one more for the tourist in the middle of photographing

第五站‖山西 平遥古城 之 壹

The Ancient City of Pingyao - Courtyard

在平遥古城中,除了城墙外,就是一家一家的看房子了
平遥出名之处,便是因为所保留下来的曾经的建筑与生活环境
小的以票号为首,然后是当年老板/经理们阔气的宅院,当铺,镖局
大的就是衙门,文庙,城隍庙
咱们先看看大大小小的宅子
城里的宅院,大不可能大过王家大院
因此比的决不是气派二字
我们看的自然也不是“大”,而是“小”
我们看的是雕花之艺,石雕,砖雕,木雕,牌匾
我们看的是巧,票号,当铺,镖局各司其职,建筑物之特色

All the different funtional courtyard made Pingyao famous.
Besides the oldest draft bank, the first financial institution in China, there are some managers' luxurious familly courtyards, pawnshops, professional firm furnishing armed escort...


















































这是在某家曾经的地下金库处一群旅游团正在拜某道长
可惜我刚拍了一张就被人拦下说不准拍照
他们一群人的下一个动作便是全体合掌举起手,气氛很是诡异。。。
















FYI:
- UNESCO World Heritage Center: Ancient City of Pingyao
- CITS: Ancient City of Pingyao
- Ancient City of Pingyao: Picture of Han Life Hundreds of Years Ago
- CRIonline: Ancient City of Pingyao

3. The Shuanglin Temple

[Jun/28/2005] The Shuanglin Temple
Qiaotou Villiage, Pinyao County
Shanxi Province, China

The Shuanglin Temple is located in Qiaotou Village which is 6km southwest of Pinyao County.
Mum and I had lodged in Pinyao last night, and took a minibus in front of Pinyao station to get there in the morning.

Since there were no express transit for budget traveller to take, we decided to take the minibus which was used by the locals to commute between villages and counties everyday. Of course it's way cheaper than the "taxi", but way "local" feel and smell than taxi too.

You will sit in the middle of bunch of cages full of chickens, or sit on a dirty-messy-looking-seat, etc. If you don't mind of all of them, that would be very good for you~coz' you can really get know the culture and save lots of money. However, it's a bad idea for people who don't speak Mandrian to take it, since you may not able to let the driver know your destination. And one more thing, the Temple was not just located right beside the main road. After you get off the minibus, you have to walk about half an hour through a nice-viewed-but-bad-smelled-boulevard to really stand in front of the Temple's front gate.

The Shuanglin Temple was original named as The Zhongdu Temple when it was build around year 571. Just after the temple was finished, it got  fired and rebuild at Song Dynasty(960-1279) and based on one statement from the sutra “佛陀双林入灭” which described the Sakyamuni parinirvana(1), the name waschanged.

The Shuanglin Temple is said to be the treasuses of ancient painted sculptures. There are 10 temple halls, 2052 painted sculptures left from Ming Dynasty(1368-1644). The value of cultural relic and ancient art history was the reason that made the Shuanlin Temple to be well-known.







The most representative works are the 14 arhat sitting scupltures with pretty realistic face expression on, impressed every single one to see them.

I don't think I made a good shoot,since the weather was pretty bad that day, and there are not allowed to put any light in the ancestral architectures since they were all made by wood.(actually it is also not allowed to take photos on since the flash will give bad effect on the statu. I'm a bad girl, but I didn't put flash on...)



The Four Deva-King was set in Deva-King Shrine..
You can see them in a very close distance, it feels way much pressures than other places.















It's very odd that all 26 hands of this Kwan-yin are on the same plane, no matter you see from any angle or direction.



The Veda in the Thousands-Buddas Shrine.







1. parinirvana [圆寂]
The term is applied only to the death of Buddhist monks, and it is a literal translation of the
Sanskrit term nirvana, or parinirvana. Strictly speaking, "parinirvana" refers to the death of a monk
who has achieved "nirvana" while he is still alive.

12月28日

第四站‖山西 镇国寺

[2005/06/28]

下午的安排是去镇国寺:山西境内,中国唯三的五代时期木构建筑物之一。

它是现代研究古代建筑模数制发展演变的最直接物证。



其中的万佛殿创建于五代时北汉天会七年(公元963年)
从侧面看去,会发现万佛殿的两个面,面阔和进深似乎相等,形成平面上的正方形,这便是唐五代时期建筑的共同特点。
可惜我们并未拍下来~这实在不能怪我们











看看这里的片子吧,勉强找出5张来
其中,只有那个水壶是当天本人无聊闲着练手之作
其余都是借用老妈的来充数。
最后一张是我俩在饥寒交迫之际,翻游客意见本时看到的~~拍下来勉强自娱自乐

这段凄惨故事,当晚我在平遥古城的樱花酒吧的留言本上写了整整两面,并以中英两版,以示警戒
如果有哪位下次去平遥,记得去看我的“悲惨一天”。

第三站‖山西 平遥县 桥头村 双林寺

[2005/06/28]

双林寺坐落在平遥县城西南
6千米的桥头村
前晚投宿平遥古城,今日一早便在平遥火车站前乘小巴前往
由于没有直达的车,我们只能搭往介休方向的小巴,中途下车,然后步行一段长长的林荫道进入

双林寺最初名为中都寺,创建于北齐武平二年(公元571年)
建成后不久,寺造兵火,宋时重新营造,取佛经典籍中的“佛陀双林入灭”即释迦圆寂之说,改中都寺为双林寺。

双林寺堪称古代彩塑艺术宝库,寺内10座殿宇内珍藏着2052尊明代彩塑,她的艺术价值,文物价值和历史价值,正是双林寺闻名远近的原因。







寺中的彩塑艺术,最具代表性的当首推罗汉殿内的十四尊罗汉坐像
通过写实的手法,生动体现了人物的各色神态,鲜明性格,栩栩如生。
由于当日大雨,天色幽暗,且为保护彩塑,每痤殿内不点烛火,且被栏杆围成只有进门处约2平方的空间供游人站立,所以很难拍照(实际上也不允许拍照~~




天王殿内的四大天王,造型雄浑有力















千佛殿内的韦陀,雄健威武,气宇轩昂



这座千手观音妙在,无论从何角度看去,所有的手都跟身体在同一平面上



千佛殿内的上千尊悬塑






12月27日

第二站‖山西 灵石县 静升镇 王家大院

[2005/06/27]

鸟瞰红门堡


以防帖子过长,下面的部分时被收到框架中,请用鼠标滚动来看


王家大院被称为民间的故宫,那气派只有身临其境才能体会
王家大院高家崖和红门堡两个部分,在当地,王家建筑最早起于何时已无可考稽,但至少可追溯到元末明初,几乎与北京故宫同期(故宫为明永乐四年即1406年建)。主要建筑出自村西张家槐树底附近,自西向东延伸,从低到高逐步扩展,修建起“五巷六堡五祠堂”的庞大建筑群,占地达25万平方米以上;而故宫的建筑面积才约15万平方米,与故宫一样都是城堡式格局。据推算鼎盛时当有房8000余间,虽不及故宫的9999间半,作为民间的一个家族,也可说是叹为观止了!现开放的45万平方米中,有房屋1118间。

7
点多的样子我们回到了火车站旁等去王家大院的小巴
途中由于我们明显的游客打扮,被无数各种各样的人拉客,
虽然早有耳闻,但真正见识之后烦不胜烦
不过这还只是冰山一角

在街边的摊子上我们买了和当地老百姓一样的东西做早餐
两盒热豆浆,一个卤鸡蛋,两个鸡蛋饼,总共25
坚持不懈地终于等到了写有“王家大院”的所谓公交小巴士(3/单程)

出来之前在网上看到了逃票路线,于是想照着碰碰运气
可惜貌似逃票之后门现在已有人看守了
不过我们既然已围着院墙走了半个多钟头,自然也没闲着

先看到了王家祠堂
顺手拍下门口石狮子,然后偷跑进去随便拍了下石碑
因为太早,里面连看守都没有









在院墙正后面有一家老太太很热情的招呼我们进去参观她家
这就是北方典型的窑洞住房



注意门上方的小洞,里面放了两只小石狮子

这是因为王家大院童家堡院墙上的亭子上的龙正对着他们家
石狮子是用来与之相对抗的





进屋时,老太太的孙女从炕上爬起来
一言不发,大眼珠子滴溜着盯着我们看



没多久,看我们聊的话题没意思,她一翻身,倒下继续睡她的大头觉






某家门板上的门神
虽已有些破旧了,但颜色仍旧鲜艳如新



仍在工作的水井



见识见识产煤大省的风采



踏脚石是不知何时的纪念石碑



这位大叔是另外一个热情邀我们进屋参观的



门上头的“两益”是取自“两相有益”之意,即利国利民


大叔给我们介绍
这房子曾经是个当铺,所以有两扇无比厚重的门加上两杆子扎实的木栓
正因为如此,当年小日本进城时,这房子被完好的保留了下来





绕了一圈最后我们还是买票走正门(全票
45,学生半票)














每个大门两旁都有各种不同寓意的石礅子












































墙外






墙内












插花:各位知道在王家大院里,最容易发生的惨剧是什么吗?
当天本人把我家老妈大人给弄丢了。
记得我当时正蹭着一个有导游的团,一转头就不见了老妈。。。
那个汗阿~~
几乎寻遍了整个王家大院,里面几乎所有的工作人员,摆摊的,导游等等等等,基本上都知道本人丢了老妈。。。因为我逢人便问是否有看到一穿花衣服,抱着相机四处拍照的戴眼镜大妈。。。当时我还背着将近30斤的大背包。。。
由于大院里掌管广播室门钥匙的某人开会去了,我最后准备放弃寻找,安心坐到大门口等她时,一个正往外走的游客听到我跟门口的看门人描述偶老妈的特征,告诉我他刚看到有这么个人在红门堡那边拍照。。。黑线ing~~可怜的我只好马上飞奔红门堡。。。
最后,当然大团圆结局!千里寻母成功////

 
 
12月26日

第一站‖山西Shanxi, 介休Jiexiu

1. [Jun/27/2005]
Jiexiu
Shanxi, China


介休是去王家大院的中转站
出火车站时还是早上点多的样子,连饭铺都没开门
于是问过当地人后,去逛了下离火车站不远的他们所说的老街
的士司机把我们载到介休二中门口
这时虽然学校还没开门,但是已有一些学生等在了校门口

Jiexiu city is in the middle of our way to The Wang Family Courtyard.
When we were standing outside the Jiexiu train station, it was about 6 in the morning, and not a single restaurant was open at that time
so we decided to follow a local's suggestion to check around the "Old Street" nearby
the cab drove us to the #2 Jiexiu high school's front gate, the driver told us "this area around is the 'Old street'."
Since it was way too early, there were a bunch of school kids were waiting for the gate to open
 




我们一身外地人打扮,尤其是本人背后的大背包,自然回头率
I was having a big backpack on my back, which is not that common everyday scene in a small town, everyone passed by me was staring me, even the guy in black was riding bike...




又偷跑入别人家里了
we went to someone's home without asking...coz' they didn't lock the door, and my mum really wanna see the inside...



别致的竹门
every special door, made by bunch of bamboos


山西为产煤之地,在这儿我开始有了初次的深刻感受
It was my first impression of Shanxi province, the primary coal mine producing province of China.